Diary of a Prairie Missionary       Part 1

2

The property of

MONMOUTH COLLEGE

donated by

ALEX.  BLAIKIE

Boston, June 16th, 1876

1835

Agreeably to an appointment from the Committee of Missions, of the Associate Reformed Synod of the West, I after making some necessary arrangements, left Cincinnati on the 22nd of April for St. Louis, Mo. During the night we had a pleasant passage and reached Louisville, Ky. ( a distance of 145 miles ) in 12 hours.

 On the 23rd of April, I for an hour or two had an opportunity of surveying the city.  Here "the rich & the poor meet together", and man sells man, for money. Persons of all shades of colour are here discovered from a jet black, to the pure white. Some of their public buildings are handsome while a few at least appeared delapidated.  The population is said to be nearly 15,000.  The plan of the city is regular and pleasant, yet the site is low, and I think often unhealthy.  Nearly opposite to the city, the falls of the Ohio obstruct the navigation.  Here for two miles a variety of islands appear, while the bed of the River is a continued bed of Limestone.  After writing and Posting a letter to my parents, I left Louisville about Noon. We spent nearly four hours in passing the Locks of the Canal (4 in number by which Boats pass the neighbouring rapids. This delay was caused in part by another Boat having entered immediately before us, and partly by the employment of Slave for free labour. The same amount of manual labour, I feel persuaded, would have been done upon a similar set of Locks in New York  State in little over half of the time. Canal said to cost about two millions of dollars. Our Boat (about 200 tons) paid eighty dollars three looks, or 4 gates. At 4 P.M. we left the Locks & with steam & current moved at about 12 miles per hour, passing some small Town and villages such as New Albany.

 24th of April.  We passed the Mouth of the Wabash and Shawnee Town, On the North Bide of the River, we passed. and saw a cave in the huge rocks, which occasionally for miles line the shore, in which a band of River pirates had formerly lived, by murdering the crews, and robbing the Boats or arks descending the River. After receiving the Wabash, the Cumberland and the Tennessee River, the Ohio becomes more majestic, and probably nearly a mile wide.  The banks are generally either bold prominent bluffs of rook or low alluvial bottom which frequently overflows The cottage system, tho' far in the rear ground, prevails generally as the style of architecture on the Banks of the River in this Region.

During the morning of the 25th, we experienced one of those sudden storms not uncommon on the Western Waters, which alarmed some of our passengers not a little. At 5 A.M. I had a view of the "Father of Waters" - the majestic Mississippi - as we left the mouth of the Ohio, and entered the muddy waters of the combined Mississippi and Missouri. Our course and progress now changed.  Instead of 12 miles per hour down we could make but six up, so much easier is it to move with the current. Truly this is a dangerous stream. Trees of the largest size, partly sunk, are perpetually assisting the changeable current in increasing the dangers of navigation. We still continued to have slavery upon our left hand, for the soul drivers are legalized characters in Missouri. This River is, in some respects, a contrast to the Ohio, especially in its ever-varying currents. It is much more rapid in its motion and when breaking through the heaps of driftwood, and islands of sand, it presents unfriendly appearance to the Boatmen. On our passage up, we passed a few paltry French villages such as St. Genevieve in Mo: on the Ill. side we passed the American bottom which is so filled with  the poison commonly called the milk-sickness in the country that few persons have the courage to reside on it. From the mouth of Ohio to St. Louis is called 200 miles. Having obtained repeated assurances from Captain Butler that I should have liberty to preach on the Sabbath, I for the first time continued mv journey upon the Lord's day, but I do not think I shall often perpetrate the same crime.

26th on Sabbath there was landing and re-landing of passengers, shipping and landing freight, taking wood on board for the passage, and altho’ there was more order than on some other Boats yet it was a sinful scene.  At 10 A.M.  I agreeably to intimation preached in the cabin to which as many of the deck passengers as pleased to attend were invited.  From the noise and jarring of the Boat which were increased by the firemen designedly to annoy us, I found it hard to address my audience. Among the dock passengers a Moravian who attended afterward expressed great satisfaction at the instruction communicated.  He appeared to be among the poor to whom the Gospel is preached. Some others appeared attentive. I did not much admire the measures and duplicity of the Captain on the occasion. I had great difficulty to prevail upon a member of the Associated Ch. who was a passenger to lead in singing. His unwillingness arose from a dread of the crime of Inter-communion, or occasional hearing.  The remainder of this Sabbath ran to waste. About 2 P.M.  I was called by the clerk to the cabin door to speak to some dock passenger who was desirous to see me. I there found a young man I believe a blacksmith with an epistle which he presented with a grin and an air of self importance.  Upon opening the communication I found an attempt at poetry In a few doggerel lines in which I was called “alpresuming follow". "The front of my offending,” reader, was this: I had on the Saturday presented a young girl (probably about 16 years of age with a copy of the Shorter Catechism which I fully believe she had never before seen, and I must now receive my castigation. This beardless youth had been in to hear me preach, and as he believed in the nostrums of John Wesley, so far as he know anything, he prevailed upon a youth  (a son of a certain Doctor in Cin.,) who was dogging about this self-important little lass, to attempt some ridicule on the Sabbath day. This young dame I discovered had been a toast with some of the young abolitionists at one time of Lane Seminary, and had received from some of them a copy of a small work on Abolition by a Boston lady. It had been inscribed by a certain Mr. Dresser, to Miss Mitchell by "her brother In our Lord Jesus Christ", yet I think it quite problematical if she could repeat the Ten Commandments. To the young blacksmith I made no reply, as it would have proved a satisfaction to him to have noticed him in any way. The youth who wrote it was said to be a student of Marion College In Mo.  He had at least as much importance as any other boy on the Boat, and would require a small acquaintance with grammar when he next attempts by poetical effusions to vindicate his "genteel young lady" from such an intolerable insult, as the offer of the best book of merely human composure under heaven. It is a precarious period in human life when youth in their teens are cutting their wisdom teeth, and well would it prove for many of them if they should "tarry at Jericho, till their beards are grown".About 5 P.M. we reached St. Louis.  Hundreds of idle people ran to the shore as we approached, most of them merely to see and be seen. The stores very generally shut but the doggeries were open in all quarters increasing crime and misery.  In the evening I went to hear the Presbyterian, so-called; I heard a Mr. Jenney of the 2nd Church, a thorough paced New Schoolman from the "East".

 27th April.  I paid $12.62 ½  for my passage, 700 miles. Called on Mr. Jonathan Thomas, with whom I lodged during my stay in St. Louis. During the afternoon I surveyed a part of the City. Before the Court then in session I heard some indelicate questions proposed to a female witness by a lawyer.

April 28th.  I today visited the New Catho’ic Chapel. It is sumptuous and splendid, but not so large as I expected. It is dedicated to "Santo Ludovico". While in it, I was amused with the observations of a couple of backwoodsmen (who appear to have weathered 50 or more winters) and the little Irish sexton. The picture of St. Patrick they called a Dunkard, as his beard was long, at which paddy became enraged & began narrating the snake killing exploits of his tutelar saint, until he talked himself back halfway to good humour. To them, the little crucifixes were objects of curiosity, and they continued to call some of the pictures the likenesses of India , until they had nearly worn out their welcome.  Near the Baptismal font a painting is said to represent the River Jordan, If so, this greatest of the"waters of Israel" is a more brook, and incapable of great  swellings”.   The interior of the Church is now complete, but the spire is not yet finished.  Five bells from Papal Europe are provided to ring all the devils beyond the Rocky Mountains on All Saints day. Three of them weigh about 3600 lbs. each and two are less. The followers of the Beast cajoled the American Government out of about 4600 of duty upon these Bells when they were imported, if I am rightly informed. The Chapel contains (says the sexton) 300 seats holding perhaps four persons each. The old Chapel has been recently burnt; beneath it a cell about eight or ten feet square and six or eight feet deep remains disclosed to observation.  The walls of It are strong, and I should perform almost half a penance to know whether it was erected as a place of confinement for the dead or for the living. In my opinion it was erected to subdue heretics, who do not fully comply with all the wishes of the Ghostly "Padres".  The similarity between this place and Montreal is considerable, such as narrow streets, French houses and semi-barbarian countenances the City is however becoming Americanized especially in the rear parts.  I today ascended to the cupola of the Court House which affords the finest prospect and view that can be at present obtained. From this the view of the City River and surrounding country is excellent. In the City with a population of perhaps five thousand, there are two Presbyterian Churches, an Episcopal and Methodist church, and the Catho’ic Chapel. North West of the City, the St. Louis College is located, a Jesuitical hotbed which would probably now not be tolerated in any part of Europe unless beside the bigtoe of the Pope.  In the Court House a variety of the most obscene expressions are scored upon the walls by the city blackguards.  Morality but especially religion is at a low ebb here.  From conversation with some religious professors I find that almost the total population of professing Protestants are in the dead sleep of Arminianism. I this evening attended a prayer meeting of tract distributors where some extravagant things were uttered, and some quaint Eastern prayers were offered.

29th April.  I today bought a poney saddle and bridle for $51 and blanket & $2.25, making a total of $53.25 (+.75 =$54). A travelling manegrie was now exhibiting in the city.

30th.  As I went to Post office I heard there for the first time soul drivers concluding a bargain about some man of like passions with themselves.  The seller of course was expatiating on the good properties and mechanicalattainments of the negroe and demanding a full price for his follow mortal, with whom he must yet stand at the judgment seat of Christ.  That slavery is a bitter draught the appearance of the country where they are doomed to labour of itself contrasted with that of a free state abundantly shows.  Where man drives man, and he drives the brutes,  you would .pity the oxen and the horse, and declare that the "tender mercies of the wicked are cruel". After making my necessary purchases and arrangements I crossed the Muddv River. At times, the two rivers, the Mississippi and Missouri, send out their waters in juxtaposition for twenty miles before they fully mingle, but at this time the entire river is coloured by the Missouri, which always "casts out mire and dirt".  The ferry on this River is a disgraceful monopoly. One individual obtained the sole right on the Illinois side in perpetuo, and has procured the land on the River Side for miles, so that all competition is prevented. He has however sold two-thirds of his right to the City of St. Louis, and the corporation of that place may yet buy him out, to prevent the citizens of Western Illinois from fostering the commerce of Alton. Upon those who attend the market, and who visit St. Louis on business, this Ferry is a considerable tax. A foot passenger pays l2 ½ cents and a man and a  horse .25. On the Illinois side the land is low and unhealthy. A small village, near the Ferry, bears the impress of delapidation. Here a few French "habitants" are discovered. At a grocery I inquired the road to Edwardsville in Madison Co. and was rather uncivilly answered and not properly directed, which afterwards led me a few miles astray. After proceeding nearly a mile from the River I for the first time saw a Western Prairie. The solitude and grandeur of the scene at first attracted my attention. It appeared to extend from near the River Eastward for six or eight miles, while toward the North and South it was difficult to fix its limits.  Having taken a wrong road, I travelled several miles in this fertile desert, where neither stump nor stone obstructed my progress, and where in the distance upon the bluffs called) or highlands I could discover some dwellings, and in distant parts of the Prairie numbers of cattle and horses grazing, or according to Western phraseology following the “range”. Delighted with the beauty of the scene, and pleased with the docility and strength of my recently obtained poney, I continued to scour across the plains, almost at a lose to discover how I could reconcile my mind with a region which a appeared to have underwent, for generations, cultivation by the hand of man, and yet was evidently only a varied display of the grandeur of the operations of Nature.  At times my course would be intercepted by a small Lake or large pond, and again by small groves of hazel bushes which vegetate luxuriantly in these unmolested solitudes. As the afternoon was pleasant, I did not hasten to leave the Prairie and found myself abundantly employed in surveying the bountiful effusion of herbs and flowers raised by the plastic hand of Nature in these luxuriant wilds which reminded me forcibly of the language of the Poet, - "Full many a flower is doomed to bud unseen, and waste its fragrance in the desert air".  Several species of flowers are now beginning to expand, and in the clumps of trees, which are found in, and generally surround the low Prairies, the wild plum and other trees are nearly in full blossom, the fragrance of which toward evening became some what unpleasant. After spending an hour or two without concern about my journey, I observed that night was rapidly approaching, which induced me to consult my may and shape my course more directly towards Edwardsville, and which, as the sun was then in the West, I was enabled to do without difficulty. In my course I had not proceeded far until I found a "habitant" at a pond watching wild geese with his rifle.  He informed me that towards evening they would come from the bluffs, to frequent the lakes and ponds.  He kindly set me upon the proper is "trail" to the nearest house upon the Stage Road, where I received proper information concerning my journey. I was at a loss to conjecture why such fertile soil so near a regular market was neglected and uncultivated, the reason I afterwards discovered.  I passed the only inn upon the road, at which I afterwards was glad, for it proved to be one of doubtful reputation.  Having travelled till dark, I turned aside (according to the custom of the country) to the nearest farmhouse, the residence of a thoroughbred backwoodsman, Col. Judy. After some parley with his betterhalf, I found I could obtain lodgings for the night but my poney must fare scantily.  Having no choice, I became a lodger, and to discover the "manner of life”, especially as it regarded religion, I entered into conversation with him, while supper was preparing.  About family, farm and stock, Indians, milksickness, wolfhunting & panther shooting, he could relate the adventures, exploits and possessions of  I, myself; but some of the questions proposed to peevish Jonah, and common in this Nation, “What is thy country, and of what people art thou?" he could not readily answer. He know that he had been 40 years in that vicinity, but from what people he was descended he could not conveniently tell. Tho’ he had a large family Bible yet he appeared careless about religious matters. He readily gave me permission to perform family worship before retiring. After the lamp was extinguished, I was amased with the vociforations of his partner, calling their negroe lad Reuben to strike a light and count the children, for she thought one of them was missing. This notice of domestic matters I should scorn to mention, If it were not for its rarity, and from the fact that this was the second prolific wife, which, from his own account, had brought the Colonel ten children. He was now afflicted with palsy, and as I was afterward Informed had lost his former wife and oldest son with that mysterious disease, the milksickness. It is quite prevalent in all that extensive tract of country called the American bottom. I was pleased to find that the Colonel had several of his children some miles from home at School.

May lst 1835.    After paying the usual amount for my lodgings I proceeded the remaining 8 miles to Edwardsville, where I waited to feed my horse and inquire for the travellers in the "old path". Disappointed in the matter from the account rendered bv an itinerating preaoher last year, I was about to proceed at this late day of the week to Greenville in Bond Co., 35 miles distant to spend the Sabbath, but on my journey I three miles from the village providentially met Mr., Jno. Boyd & Mr. Samuel Hamilton, who not only received me with a hearty welcome but mentioned to me the state of religious matters in that vicinity. I returned to the village with Mr. Boyd & proceeded to ascertain If we could procure the Court House for the Sabbath, which we did. I then proceeded about five miles North and spent the night with Mr. D. A. Lautreman. I find that during the month of April I have travelled about eight hundred miles, preached nine sermons; while my expenses have been about $15.36 ¼  beside sundries to the amount of $60.87 ½.

May 2nd.  I called on two or three friends and returned to Mr. Hamilton.

3rd Lords Day. I spent altogether a pleasant day.  I preached twice in the Court House to 80 to 100 persons.  After sermon, I was invited to lodge with ________ Street, Esq., formerly from Charleston S.C. In the evening I was annoyed with profanation of the Sabbath by many idle persons and travellers.  As a young man, agreeably to his Master's directions, was yoking his oxen, I admonished him to remember that it was the Sabbath day, to which he replied, "the devil it is". When I continued my admonitions I was told by him to "save my own soul, and never mind him”.

4^th.    I find that probably ten or twelve individuals might here unite with us if it were expedient to form a society, or organize a church.  I received from D.A. Lautreman, Esq., $2.25 for the missionary fund.  Exp. 12 ½.  After dining at Mr. Hamiiltons and calling at Mr. Boards, I proceeded on my journey about 18 miles and lodged with a Mr. Pierce, where I had worship in the evening. on this journey I had to cross one Prairie after another.

5th.             Crossing a beautiful Prairie, I called upon Mr. Carson, a member of the Associate Church, where I was

 kindly received and breakfasted, About five families here belong to the Associate Church. After leaving Mr. C.  I

 found I had forgotten my umbrella which not a little annoyed me, but I felt unwilling to return after it 17 miles.  At

 Greenville I called On a Mr. B. Tho’ a County town it is a poor delapidated village. It is expected to improve more

 rapidly as soon as the National road in that vicinity is located. Exp. 62 ½. Leaving Greenville, I proceeded to

Hillsboro in Montgomery Co. At, or near Greenville, I found the only society of old School Gen. As. Presbyterians

which I have discovered yet in the far West. They are under the pastoral care of the Rev.  Mr. Stewart who labours

between there and Vandalia 18 miles distant. In this vicinity I could discover none who were friendly to the A. R.

Church. Hillsboro I found to be quite "Yankee-fied". My landlord was from "back of Boston".  He permitted me to

conduct worship in his family.

In the morning of the 6th of May, I had to pay 75 for my supper bed and poney. In this village there are a society of Lutherans and another of N.S.Presbyterians who have a brick Meetinghouse. The Agent for Military lands who came poor from back of Boston but is now rich resides here, Leaving Hillsboro I proceeded to Carlinville, the County town of Macoupin, It was with some difficulty that I could obtain breakfast owing to the scarcity of provisions, At the second house which I reached after crossing the Prairie, I succeeded in obtaining a little pone and pork and an egg or two and some bitter coffee. At Carlinville I waited to feed my horse and make some inquiries about the state of religion in that vicinity.  It is a new and small place, and I should suppose it religious. As I was anxious to proceed to Springfield before Sabbath, I left Carlinville in the afternoon for Macoupin Point and travelled about 16 miles when night overtook me and compelled me to remain upon that side of the Prairie which in this place is twelve or more miles wide.  As a sign post presented Itself with the picture of a two story mansion floating in the air I repaired to the old log cabin where I was shewn into the Barroom as my chamber for the night. The Bar was formed by two or three pins of wood driven into the wall and a board laid upon them, on which the usual implements found in doggeries were placed. It was a box set against the main building in a sloping position, with a fireplace in one end and a bed in the other, and was I think about ten feet square. This was the common thoroughfare.  The majordomi for the night was a talkative fellow who bore a strong resemblance to a creole.  I found him a perpetual talker. In conversation at supper, I inquired what religious denomination, if any, had worship in that vicinity. He said they were many of them Baptists but he was not well enough acquainted with their principles to tell farther what they were. When I indulged my inclination in the custom of the country by asking him, to what society of religionists he belonged?  I received for answer from him the following declaration-.  "I am a Christian, I belong to no sect in particular, but if I were to join  any, I should join the Roman Catho’ics!" I soon found that instruction upon him would be lost, yet I endeavored to have worship with his family. This they all avoided but himself, one son and an aged negroe.  Among the traps in his Barroom I discovered an old Bible the exterior of which bore the marks of age but when opened I found it quite too clean for a Book which had been forty years from the press. It however was employed as a register tho’ It had been but little read. Not only were the blank leaves which usually are bound between the Testaments written to the full, but others had been inserted, for the purpose of recording not only the issue of some couple of white people but also the offspring of some of their negroes. One page was filled with “Sarahs Children” and another with “Anna’s Children”, together with their respective ages and a catalogue of prices. One boy, for example, eleven years of age, was valued at $200, and others in proportion. This part of the Book was evidently most worn for it probably was a ready reckoner, by which to compute their wealth. The sum total of their negroes would shew how rich they were in souls.  I dread that the volume will prove a sorrowful possession both to the previous and present proprietors in the day of Judgment. Truly the slave holder, and driver in "more brutish than any man, etc.".

7th  May.    Finding "the heart of the wicked to be "little worth", and desirous to reach Springfield, I set off across the Prairie by or before 6 A.M. After travelling two or three miles a slight shower commenced but I did not think of returning until it became severe and I found myself well drenched.  As I became wet I thought it best to continue my journey in hopes of more pleasant weather but in this I was disappointed, for the storm suddenly became violent, the lightening incessant, and the thunder appalling. Soon the lightening became brilliant, and very close to my path, at times it appeared to discharge upon the very road. Once or oftener it struck so near as to make my poney bolt from the trail and attempt to ran at random on the Prairie. I would then have been glad to have found one friendly tree to share with me the dangers to which I was exposed from the electric fluid. Finding by the almost incessant discharges of lightening that my danger was not becoming less, I then pressed my poney through the Increasing mud towards the nearest woods.  An hour and forty minutes after leaving the loquacious Calhoon, I found myself beside a comfortable fire in the dwelling of a friendly Kentuckian who shewed me every kindness which my situation demanded. The storm still raged for an hour or two with unabated fury.  Before reaching the house my clothes almost without any exception were saturated with water while my saddlebags with their contents were completely soaked. After two or three hours of toasting over a good fire my landlord Informed me that a Mr. Wallace from Nova Scotia lived within a mile or two. I lost but little time in visiting him, and after a little conversation I agreed to preach at his house that evening. While the heart of man deviseth his way the Lord directeth his steps, otherwise I should not now have had an Interview with Mr. Goo. Wallace. He left Rawdon, N.S., before 1820 and has a year or two since joined a small society of Gen. As. Presbyterians in the South part of Sangamon Co. where he lives. A brother of his lives a mile or two distant and is a Cumberland Presbyterian.

8th May.   I recd from Mr. G.W. $1.00. He accompanied me to Springfield where I lodged with Jno.  Lindsey, Esq., one of our Elders.

9^th.   I visited the village, called on G. Forquer, Esq. & J. Lamb and made arrangements for preaching in the Co. House on Sabbath. This is a growing village but perhaps not so eligibly situated as it might have been. A considerable bodv of open Prairie lies off to the South. In it, beside a Court House and Gaol, are a Presbyterian Meetinghouse (N.School), a Campbellite and Methodist Meetinghouse.

10th Lord’s Day.   Went a mile to the village and preached twice in the filthy Court House. It is truly a vile place and in this village the Sabbath is awfully profaned. Even in the house at meeting the lads could not refrain from whittling sticks. I observed not a few dandies strutting through the mud and gutturs. Sabb. not so pleasantly spent.

11^th.    I spent in Springfield and vicinity. I could find but few members here.

12^th.   I left Springfield & after travelling nine or ten miles I preached at the house of Mr. Peter Lautreman, Among mv audience I had a Methodist & Cumberland Presbyn.  Preacher.

13^th.   I pursued my journey towards Jacksonville, and after dining with a Mr. Robertson I reached Mr. John Laurie’s of Birthwood, four miles Northeast of Jacksonville in the evening.  I now continued to spend the remainder of this month in this vicinity in visiting not only some of the families belonging to our Society but others.

17^th Sabb.    I preached at 11 A.M. at the house of Mr. Thos. Borland, and in the afternoon at the Court House in Jacksonville. Here the Sabbath is much profaned by open stores & &

24th.   I preached at the house of Mr. Parks and at Mr. Borland’s to attentive people. During the week days I preached twice in the Henderson Settlement in Jersey Prairie. I found the members, some of them at least, in an unpleasant situation by some sort of bitterness.   During this week, I preached In a small settlement about six miles S.E. of Jacksonville. On Monday of this week I went about nine miles S.E. of Jville. to attend a

Camp Meeting.  On my way as I asked for information I was told by an individual who had attended yesterday, that they had last evening "opened the door, but they had not then called up mourners".  At 11 A.M. I reached the ground.  Dr. Nelson of Western notoriety was then addressing them and concluded soon afterwards. On the ground six double camps were erected. These were furnished with beds, chairs, looking glasses, teakettles and bake ovens. They now had been together since Thursday or Friday last. After an intermission of fifteen minutes service again commenced, but it was hindered for a season by the rain. From 150 to 180 persons were present, but according to their own account above 200 had communicated  yesterday.  They were all invited to partake - Methodists, Baptists, and others who were in good standing in their own churches.  After all I cannot believe that 200 communicated there for from the appearance of the ground, the seats, and the accounts of others there were not double as many in attendance on Sabbath as on Monday.  Very few joined them for the first time.  In “getting up” this "revival" they must have in some way not done it Justice or the excitement would have been greater. I hope that such things will soon have an existence only in name among Presbyterians, and that they will retire in an orderly manner to their respective dwellings, or those of their friends, during night on sacramental seasons.

31^st May,  Sabbath.   I preached at Mr. Borland’s and in the Court House.  Jacksonville contains a N.S.Pres. and a Methodist meetinghouse, an Episcopal and an Independent is building.  During the month of May, I have travelled about 300 miles, preached fifteen times; recd. for the Missy. fund $14.33 ½, while my expenses were $3.25.  Alas! I have done but little.

June 3^rd.    After making some preparatory arrangements I left Mr. W. M. Grahams North of Jacksonville for Warren Co. After calling at a Mr. Shavers, I proceeded to Beardstown on the Illinois River and reached Rushville in Schuyler Co. in the evening.  There I met with the Rev. W. Frazer of the Gen.  As.  Pres. who with some of his people was called there as a witness in a case of murder which was now in trial In that village, tho’ the crime was perpetrated in the adjoining Co. (McDonough) in which Mr. Frazer resides. By one of his Elders, an intelligent man, I was informed that there are only four old Sch. Pres. in this State North of Vandalia - Messrs. Stewart, Ewing, Brich, & Frazer. On my journey today I discovered a troop of land speculators proceeding towards Quincy to attend the sales on the 15^th.  A. Mr. W., a N.S.P. officiates In Rushville.

June 4^th.    I proceeded eleven miles for breakfast & crossed the LaMine River. At 9 A.M. I continued my journey through Prairies and             of timber, and by wrong directions wandered several miles out of my way. Much of the scenery today was delightful.  The distant woodland reminds the wanderer in the Prairie of the shore as it appears at sea.  About ½  past 5 P.M. I succeeded in reach@ an inhabited house but could there obtain no provisions. I then visited a second. The old lady informed me that they had neither flour nor meal in the house but she would let me have some corn. After obtaining a five-pennynny worth, which I carried in my pocket handkerchief, I set off to look for some victuals.  I succeeded in a rough way at the next house, and after refreshing myself and poney I proceeded five miles farther to a Mr. Smiths, said to be the only person who could keep my horse for the night in that vicinity. I had today travelled out of Schuyler through a part of Hancock Co.  At Smith's I could find nothing for my poney but Prairie grass and a little green wheat., I passed two families where I stopped at 6 P.M. who had no Bible in their houses. I think they were from Tennessee.

June 5^th.    After travelling about 11 miles through woods & sloughs and Prairies I reached the dwelling of B. F. Marsh, Esq. with whom I had previously been acquainted in St. Johns, N. Brunswick, where I was joyfullly received. Breakfast and dinner properly cooked were now to me a luxury indeed. He lives within three miles of Fort Edwards, or Warsaw, on the Miss, River, I think with six or seven thousand dollars at command, he might have located to greater advantage elsewhere, tho’ his opinion is different. After dinner I continued my journey but for want of proper direction wandered six or more miles out of my road so that I had to seek lodgings only nine miles from Marsh’s.

I had this evening again to get some corn and carry it with me, and when I found lodgings I then had to mow Prairie grass for my poney myself.  In the morning I had to pay my host half a dollar for my accommodations,

June 6^th.     In the morning an Illinois shower or a violent thunder storm came on which detained me until past 8 o'clock.  I then travelled 16 miles when I was again detained 4 hours by another dash of hail and rain. At 3 P.M. I had still 25 miles to travel to reach South Henderson where my appointment for Sab., was made and from the information which I read. respecting the oreeks, I was quite discouraged.  At ¼ past 3, I set out and after wading four or five considerable streams performed the last 25 miles of my journey in less than five hours.

7th Lord's Day.   I preached twice to an attentive audience in a large barn belonging to W. Jamieson, Esq. I then made appointments for tomorrow and Thursday and Sabbath & Monday next.  The rain today was very heavy and disagreeable.

8^th.   At a ¼  before eleven I preached & after service took some steps preparatory to the organization of a church.  21 applications were made, most of them sought admission by examination.  I continued the examination until 4 P.M.  The applicants appeared humble, and desirous of instruction.

June 9th.             I lost in conversation & &

l0th.    I rode to the Cedar Creek 15 miles.

11^th.      Preached there, and proceeded as on Monday to examination & &

14^th.      I preached at the Sharon meeting house, a small building erected by our people, without glass nails or a hanging door, and having no floor but the Prairie sod.  I trust that we enjoyed his presence, who dwelleth not in temples built with hands.

15^th.    I returned to the Jamieson settlement, preached, and presided at the election of Elders & &. Recd. a few more applications.

16^th.     Left that settlement and travelled 25 miles. In that distance I had to carry my saddle & saddlebags across a creek on a log and got a friend to swim his own horse and mine through the creek.  The streams were now unusually full and crossing some of them with my poney was neither pleasant nor safe.  Having met two persons they advised me not to attempt to cross the Prairie (16 miles) that night, as the water in the sloughs would swim my poney.  It was not too late to collect the few neighbours for sermon.  They are about six or eight families in that vicinity, mostly Methodists. Few if any persons in that vicinity are under proper religious influence.

17^th June.            After a ride of 25 miles I reached the dwelling of B. F. Marsh where I spent the remainder of the day in examining the catechism of the Refd.  Dutch Church, conversation, & &. In this County, Hancock, the first place of worship to be erected is Catholic, near Venice at the lower rapids of the Miss.  In this County the population is sparse and the Prairies large.  The mass of the population are Yankees and Kentuckians.

18^th.    The weather was now oppressively warm.  I    today continued my journey to Quincy in Adams Co. 34 miles. A little after noon I came to the Bear Creek or Jackson's River where I had to take my saddle and saddlebags into a canoe, and pay a man 25 cents for setting me over & allowing me to swim my poney alongside, Owing to the rapidity of the stream, and the large quantities of wood both floating and fast, it was a dangerous undertaking.   About 2 P.M. I halted to dine and bait my poney at the house of a Tennesseean family who appeared to have seen better days, and of whom one of the ladies I was informed was a R.  Catholic.  There are some English infidels in that vicinity.  I reached Quincy in time to view the River and village and then to proceed about 3 miles to the house of Mr. D. Shaw.  The River is here nearly a mile wide the water of a dark brown, and the bottoms were now covered to their greatest depth in some places for five or six miles.  The sale of Congress lands had now drawn numbers of speculators and others to the village, which stands upon a high bank of the River. The mercury stood at 90° this afternoon in the shade.  In the evening a heavy storm appeared to pass away to the N. East.  Owing to my appointments at Jacksonville I could not now wait to preach in this vicinity tho’ solicited by the Shaw family who belong to our church. Tho’ the cholera was past before this period in Quincv and I met one of our people returning with it to Warren Co., yet I was providentially preserved.

19^th.    I left Quincy for Morgan Co. and came about 46 miles.  Almost my whole journey today lay upon the dividing ridges & a good deal of it through what is called barrens in this country.  On my journey I had an opportunity of observing a bird charmed by a snake.  The bird appeared to be of the bluebird species so-called in this country, and the snake of a large size called the Bull snake. The snake lay across the road, perfectly still, while the bird appeared in complete distress fluttering, with its feathers erect, and chirping in a very plaintive manner. As it descended it appeared much agitated and moved horizontally still approaching the ground.  From its appearance I believe it would have soon been destroyed if my horse before I could check his motion had not started the snake. The poor bird appeared much fatigued. In my ride today I passed a small congregation of Dunkard baptists and a scattered mixed people of several false creeds, beside a few behavers in original sin & native depravity. I was informed by the way that a man in that vicinity had committed murder when drunk & was now held on a bail of $800 or $1000 to appear for trial. I could discover none of our people in this region.

20^th.    A heavy frost was felt this morning over much of the country. My hands became disagreeably cold in holding the bridle. About five miles from the Illinois River I passed a small village called Griggsville the inhabitants of which I was informed were chiefly from the N. E. States. About 10 I crossed the Ill. River at Phillips Ferry. It was then brimfull and there is about 500 yards wide. 12 ½ cents ferriage.  Some cholera then existed a few miles above.  From the River to the Bluff is 4 or 5 miles to the village of Oxville, which I passed on my journey to the Union Prairie. After passing a small whiskey villiage called Bethel I at 4 P.M. reached the house of Mr. Milne, and in two or three hours after met with Mr. Parks, the other Miss. appointed by our Synod to this region. Our meeting was a mutual pleasure. I had now been absent from this settlement six hours less than 17 days and during that period I have travelled about 340 miles, preached seven times beside catechising & &.

21^st Lord's Day.      I as usual preached twice in the settlements six miles apart, and afterwards appointed our fast day & preparatory to the Sacrament of the Supper on the next Sabbath.  Mr. Parks preached today In the Preebvterian Meetinghouse in Jacksonville, where his services were well received tho’ some appeared ready to say "can any good thing come out of Nazereth?"

22^nd.     Mr. Parke proceeded to visit a friend from Kentucky who lay 17 miles from Jacksonville sick with the fever. I today went five or six miles S.W. of the villiage to visit some friends.

23^rd.    Called on Mrs. Agnes Prentice, a sister to R. Bishop, D.D., of Oxford, Ohio, who while I was gone at Warren Co. had lost two of her sons within a few days of each other by consumption. She evidently enjoyed the sanctified use of her affliction, and found the "consolation of God" strong in the season of adversity. I afterwards proceeded about three miles South to the Buckhorn Prairie where I preached in the evening. A kind of Methodist Dunkard Baptist was present, and according to custom the merits of the discourse were discussed after meeting was over, when he gave it as his opinion, that the people who had sent me out must have supposed the people were all heathen in that region, while he thought that religion was as much known there as any where else. The fact was that he had himself attempted from time to time to preach to the people, and he was now afraid that if others preached in this neighbourhood his attendance would be but small. Many such deceivers are gone out into this part of the world. John Wesley and Alex Campbell are the Jupiter and Mercurius to whom multitudes of the people on the plains of Illinois are willing to do sacrifice Any nostrum promulged by almost any imposter under their colours and standards passes current for truth among their "bewitched" followers. Of Abel it is recorded he being dead yet speaketh, and of Wesley I say he being dead yet reigneth.  If he has said, so it must stand, among his followers.  If it be not equal to the laws of the Medes and Persians, it is generally not a whit behind the decretal from St. Peters among the deluded papists.  Campbellism finds still a more cordial reception in the depraved human heart than even the compounding system which says, "if you do so much Christ will do the rest". It says that "the Holy Ghost has as surely finished his work as that Christ has finished his", and that man must and can do all that remains to be performed. These theories are published with acceptance where strong delusions are sent upon "men that they should believe a lie". As Campbellism has not the Jesuitical organization of Wesleyan Methodism, and lies more remote from the pale of Scripture truth than it does, it is evidently destined to be comparatively ephemeral while the other will spread from generation to generation where men do not "ask for the old paths where is the good way".

June 24^th.    I proceeded to the "Sweet Settlement", about six miles S.E. of Jacksonville, called on two families Messrs. Dudhope & Brown, both formerly from Scotland, and returned in the evening to Mr. W. Graham's.

25^th.   I had set apart to converse with any who might feel disposed to join our Church for the first time. Two applications were made.  A place was today prepared for divine service on the approaching solemnity. Under a roof 22 feet by 18, between a stable and a corn crib, our place of worship was pitched.  Corn "shucks” were spread upon the ground as a floor, while 18 or 20 benches or stools were arranged in front of our stand or pulpit which was erected about two feet from the ground.  On the North Side we had a large waggon drawn UP, and on the South a considerable awning spread which space when filled with seats would accommodate upwards of 200 persons. This was a superior place of worship to many others in the "Far West", and in such a place a heart has been "filled with laughter when hearing the words of Eternal Life. I trust it was so here.

26^th  June.   Was observed as a day of humiliation and self-examination by our people before the Communion season. As I was oommencing the second service for the day Brother Parks made his appearance, having been since Sabbath with his friend from Ky. who was sick.

27^th.    I had to do all myself as Mr. Parks pled to be with his sick friend 16 miles distant. By the session 4 were admitted on certificate & two on examination. Tokens were distributed to about twenty-two.

28^th Lord's Day.   . At half past ten our services commenced, and altho the Methodists had held a meeting near us, as they had previously done to prevent their people from attending us, yet our meeting was large, and generally attentive.  After preaching the "Action Sermon”, I proceeded to state to them our views of intercommunion, that as we did not associate with others on this solemn occasion, or permit them to join with us, it was principally a consequence which arose from the Calvinistic view of the Atonement. The Arminian scheme is the basis of intercommunion in my opinion.  Mr. Parks then proceeded to read the warrant offer the consecration prayer and serve the first table. From the second table we were under the necessity of removing a young female, who notwithstanding all that I had said on intercommunion, appeared to come forward as a necessary consequence of her attendance there. So difficult is it to manage those who are “unaccustomed to the yoke”. In the afternoon we had a sermon from Mr.Parks on Rome 5th, lst. At six P.M. I went about half a mile and dispensed the ordnance of baptism at the house of Mr. J. McMillan. my reasons for so doing  were that the mother was then unable to leave her bed, and on Monday I could not overtake it, owing to my previous arrangements. Truly we had a pleasant day.

29^th.    After a sermon by Mr. Parks, I baptized two children, and afterwards. as about to leave this people, among whom I bad spent five Sabbaths, I attempted a word of exhortation, but my feelings overcame me and I was forced to desist. Often have I been similarly situated tho seldom so much affected.  In the afternoon I proceeded to the Jersey Prairie, and preached to an attentive audience. Mr. Parks preached this afternoon near Mr. Jno.  Laurie’s, about 4 miles from Jacksonville.

June 30^th.    After spending some time in making preparations for my journey I between 8 & 9 A.M. today proceeded, (with the Rev.       Parks & Mr. W.M. Graham, one of our ruling elders) towards Warren Co. to fulfil my previous appointments.  As every stream had been for some time full, the Illinois River was now unusually high, and in consequence of the Cholera raging at Beardstown in our direct route we took a more circuitous one by Meradosia, which villiage we reached by 2 P.M. The site of a railroad is surveyed from this petty villiage to Jacksonville about 24 miles. The ferryman was now on the opposite side, and after waiting two hours as a special favour he condescended to return with us.  We were an hour and twentyfive minutes in reaching, not the opposite Bank, but where our horses could wade and carry us.  One of the boatmen was half drunk, and sober men would have .passed us over in an hour. For the passage of three men and three horses we were charged $4.50 though all that the law allowed him was double price or 75 cents altogether, that is 25 cents each. As we were then wholly in his power, he condescended to take four dollars, that is a dollar for the trip of the hired hand, and a dollar an hour for the use of his Boat and his own labour. Such is a specimen of the extortion practised by unsanctified human nature. After wandering six or seven miles in the fertile bottom prairies, we succeeded in reaching the bluffs before night overtook us. The improvements in this vicinity are of recent origin, we however succeeded in finding a comfortable place of lodging with a family from Kentucky. I here mention from Kentucky, because in travelling through this region the wayfaring man seeks a lodging at almost any dwelling where night overtakes him. They accommodate him according to their ability and inclination, and charge him in the morning for their trouble, and as the population is diversified by persons from almost every State in the Union, a traveller can in a short time become partially acquianted with the leading traits of character of each people. The roughest of the rough, with whom I have met are the natives of Tennessee. There is ofttimes a want of civility about them which becomes unpleasant, and a want of taste about their dwellings which indicates the sluggard more than the man of industrious habits, while to their rifle and the destruction of animal life they are devoted even to a proverb. About the Kentuckian you readily observe plainness, and friendship, and a species of open boldness, which gives you confidence, and freedom. True there are among them specimens of cold formality, and blundering impudence, but I believe they are comparatively few. Be this as it may; give me a night's lodging, after being all day weatherbeaten upon a prairie, either with a plain buckeye, or a hospitable Kentuckian, before either an uncouth Tennesseean or an ultra polite Now Englander.  I feel more at home for my comfort is generally more studied and, such as they have, they give me. Our landlady for the night informed me that she is a member of the Baptist Church, and that probably 200 persons collect to Baptist meeting on Sabbath, tho according to her own account the individual In that vicinity, who attempted to preach, was by no means qualified for such a calling. Alas! there are too many such.  May their number decrease.

During the Month of June, I find I have rode about 400 miles, preached sixteen times, baptized three children, had two or three diets of examination, presided twice at the election of Elders, assisted in dispensing the supper once, and have received for the Missionary fund $19.37 ½, while my expenses were $6.16 cents.  This has been one of my busiest, and I believe, one of my happiest months. "I will say of the Lord, he is my refuge, and my fortress; my God; in Him will I trust".

July 1^st,  1835.    As the streams are at this season quite full, we had to follow the highlands which led us a circuitous route through a part of Schuyler, Adams, and Hancock Counties.  A great part of the country in this region is yet unsettled owing principally to the Military Claims. After a ride of fifty miles we succeeded in reaching Carthage ( the Co. town of Hancock) at dark, and, at the only tavern, we succeeded in obtaining lodgings, such as they were for our selves, but we could not procure a stable for our horses. We soon discovered that we were not among Kentuckians, by their spitting and betting & &

July 2^nd.               We had to pay our landlord who was “from the East”, just double of what the Kentuckian demanded yesterday morning for precisely the same amount of accommodation.  After riding several miles we took breakfast at the house of a Tennesseean, where we had to attend in every way to our horses ourselves, and take their rough fare at fifty per cent above Kentucky price.  Indeed by this time, we knew almost precisely what our accommodations would be, if we could only learn where the person was from. At very few places could we find grain for our horses, and necessity often drove us under a roof which we would not have visited from choice, We today, following the "trail" over the extensive Prairies, passed through a part of Hancock, and McDonough, into Warren County. We crossed two or three Prairies, from 12 to 16 miles wide. About 12 miles South of Monmouth in Warren, we stopped to recruit our horses, where I received the melancholy intelligence, that one of our Elders elect was dead since I left the settlement, and the wife of the other, beside, another head of a family, and one of our members, a young woman recently from Ohio. There was with us no alternative but to proceed, as tomorrow had been set apart as a day of humiliation. On our journey we met some travellers who informed us that another of our members, and the head of a family was abandoned by the Doctor, and dying with Cholera. Into the midst of it we must go, and our sensations were not exactly of the most pleasant nature.  The path of duty however was before us, and consequences were with the Master. We consequently proceeded, and found it better to go to the house of mourning than to the house of feasting, for by sorrow the heart is made better. The word and promises of God were (now at least) pleasant, and not only were consolations drawn from the 91st Psalm, but also from the words Of  Christ the wisdom of God" - "Whoso hearkeneth unto me shall dwell safely, and be quiet for the fear of evil. I found it even so.  I believe that I was now less oppressed with fear, than I have sometimes been, when it, the cholera, was an hundred miles distant. As we reached the first family of our people the head of it was breathing his last. Under the fatigue of our journey we had still to proceed five miles to the house of Mr. Hugh Martin, having today performed a journey of 58, or 60, miles, and in a little over two days and an half 143 miles.  The excitement & alarm had now become general over the vicinity, and mens hearts seemed to fail them. Thin exercise of Divine Providence appeared to me mysterious, for our people, (with few exceptions) alone, were afflicted.  "It was (not) a chance which happened to us" an said the idolatrous Ekronites, for the inquiry is, "hath there been evil in the City, and the Lord hath not done it"?  It was to us all a solemn, and I hope a profitable time.

July 3^rd.    At the hour appointed we proceeded to the place of worship, where I met not a few Rachaels, who refused to be comforted, and who appeared, tho’ in resignation, to say, "the Almighty hath dealt very bitterly with me". Profuse as were their tears, and bitter as were the lamentations, of those who had lost a parent, a husband, a daughter or a sister (for each of these ties were severed) my feelings were most completely overcome when I discovered our remaining Elder Elect (W. Jamieson, Esq) lamenting the wife of his youth. I had parted with her on the 16th of June in perfect health, and among the many who had anticipated our Communion Season with delight, (with perhaps the exception of Mr. Jno. Richie our other late Elder Elect) none, so far as I could discover, could more safely adopt the language of the Pslamist, as expressive of the exercises of their soul, than she, when he says, "My soul thirsteth for God, for the living God; when shall I come, and appear before God?"

This was literally realized (I have no doubt) in her happy experience on the 30th of June.  On the Saturday previous that mysterious disease the cholera attacked her. On Monday she had so far recovered as to be considered out of danger.  Beside giving directions to those who conducted her household matters, to make all preparation so that they could leave home on thursday to enjoy our approaching solemnity, she on that day read five chapters of the Bible, repeated many of the questions of (that companion of those that fear God,) the shorter catechism and (with a thankful heart) spoke to those around her of the lovingkindness of the Lord in thus causing the wilderness to rejoice by the dispensation of Gospel ordinances. She opened her mouth wide, and the Lord filled it abundantly, not through the channel of ordinances, but from the pure fountain of life, the River which proceedeth out of the throne of God and of the Lamb. Towards evening she relapsed and disease was permitted to mingle herbody with the clods of the valley, and to return her spirit to God who gave it, on the morning of Tuesday. "Many die as sudden, few as safe". As the streams were then swollen and some of them had become a little dangerous, her husband when I left the settlement an the 16th of June accompanied me 20 miles, swam his own horse and mine through one of the streams and permitted me to carry my saddlebags over dry on a log, and again exchanged with me as he knew his could swim over with me in safety. On our journey he disclosed to me much of his distrust of himself in undertaking the office of a Ruling Elder and its solemn responsibilities. He was then in prosperity, beloved by his acquaintances, and enjoying the society of virtuous woman, who was truly a crown to her husband, but today he wears the habiliment of mourning, for God has taken away the “desire o his eyes with a stroke". I found him sitting beside the place of worship evidently experiencing, that the "heart knoweth its own bitterness", and I thought I could realize much of the exercise and feelings Of Job’s companions, when “they sat down upon the ground with him seven days and seven nights, and none spake a word unto him; for they saw that his grief was very great". I could merely grasp his hand, for our tongues were sealed in silence. We literally began, upon this solemn occasion, to "sow In tears", yet it was (I hope) to us a profitable day. After two services we dismissed the assembly, appointing a meeting of session at ten A.M. tomorrow, and intimating the ordination of the remaining Elder Elect according to previous appointment if no objections be offered.

July 4^th.    While millions were this day exulting in the anniiversary of a Nation's birthday. we were engaged in organizing a church of professing people in the enjoyment of Christian fellowship. At half past ten A.M. session was constituted, consisting of four members. About 20 persons were admitted on certificate from other churches of our people, and nearly 40 by examination.  Beside sermon, the ordination, installation, and charges, the examination kept us closely engaged untill within a few minutes of seven P.M. Tho’ a labourious, It was a pleasant day.

Another widow met with us today who had buried her husband yesterday. In all 59 were admitted altho’ five had been removed by the cholera.  Our meetinghouse here is a specimen of now beginnings in the "Far West.”  It had neither hanging door, window, nor floor, excepting the prairie turf, and not a nail was found inits construction unless it were a few in the wall for the accommodation of hanging hats. Excepting a visit from (Mr. now) the Rev. Jeremiah Morrow last year, and from Mr. Thos. Turner this summer, I was the first of our ministers who preached to them in the Jamieson settlement and in their Sharon Meetinghouse near Cedar Creek.  We today, within 12 miles of the Mississippi River, have been permitted to admit a company of professing people to the enjoyment of Gospel privileges. May their increase in pure and undefiled religion, and in numbers, keep pace with the prosperity of the Nation.

July 5^th  Sabbath.     This was with many of us a solemn day. The attention and order shewn by the people would have done credit to an old congregation.  In the one corner of the house was one of our communicants upon a little bed, and in the opposite corner another, so far recovered from an attack of cholera as to be able to set with us a part of the day.  Not only was our little house crowded but a very attentive audience surrounded it. We had four table services, and our exercises continued nearly the whole day.  We were permitted to wait on God, without distraction, to enjoy a feast, and a good day.

6^th.    I preached to an attentive people. After sermon Mr. Parks baptized six or seven persons. We then took leave of the friends. In the afternoon arrangements were made for assisting the funds and they gave us the Missionary allowance.

7^th July.   After writing to Mr. McDill I proceeded to the Meetinghouse of the Ass. Ch., in that vicinity & addressed a meeting of the temperance society. I then passed the night with a Mr. Hopkins from Ky., an Elder of the Gen. As. Pres. I fear that his influence in that vicinity may injure our cause there.

8^th.    I proceeded to Mercer Co. 20 miles, The Prairies here are large and sandy and less fertile than in Warren. At New Boston, the County town I expected to have crossed the Mississippi to the "New Purchase" - to see Black Hawk & Keeokuck and their Indiana, but we were detained by the villiage “doggery” which had been opened some ten days before.            In this County there are now two magistrates,. The one of these was sued before the other, about some money matter.  While the jury were adjourned under the escort of a constable to the River Bluff as their private room to make up their verdict, the Sheriff of the County attacked the magistrate whose case was Pending and attempted to "gouge” out his eyes.  He immediately prosecuted him before the sitting magistrate and had him fined $15.00.  By this fight (caused indirectly by whiskey) and the trial to which my companions were called as witnesses, I was detained from crossing the River. This was the second fight since the doggery was established, and the second in the villiage tho’ above a year old.  The avowed infidels have attempted to elect all officers in this County in opposition to what they call the religionists. The Sheriff belonged to the infidel crew.

9^th July.    We made an early start to cross and ascend a few miles the "Father of waters", which is here (at the narrows) nearly a mile wide.  We had two canoes lashed together, on which was taken two large boxes of  “plunder”, or household furniture.  Out of the six of us in company, two were afflicted with fever and ague, and two were unacquainted with the paddle and so took the time easy. The toil principally devolved upon another and myself.  We found it hard indeed to stem the current & only made about 10 miles by noon.. Mr. Parks then in company with Jas. Erwin, Esq. proceeded to cross the Ioway River to visit -Keeokuck town.  Finding I could not proceed (as I had to travel about 90 miles before Sabbath) I resolved to preach to the two or three families of our people on that side of the River. I had now to got the Mrs. of one family who was recovering from the fever into a canoe and with the assistance afforded by one of the sick men, one of those unacquainted with the paddle, I succeeded in conveying her to the other house a distance of two miles where at 6 P.M. I preached.  To form an idea of a Western dwelling, I would here say, that the one in which we met had for two corner posts two sugar trees, to the one of which the coffee mill was fastened.  The walls are formed by pieces of timer drove in the ground, and covered in the Western or, with rough long oak shingles. But,.reader, do not despice such a dwelling; this one is a dwelling of the righteous, and among the habitations of the just, and happy would it prove if the splendid mansion as regularly sent forth the voice of joy and melody as this cottage at the Bluffs of the Mississippi.  We had then to take the sick woman to the canoe and return to her dwelling I here received from Mr. Jno. Kennedy $5.00 for the Miss. fund. As we glided down the Muskateen, scores of large fish were seen leaping from the water, and thousands of “gallinippers" ( a species of a very large moschetto) were playing in the atmosphere. The Bluffs here are about an hundred feet high, covered partially with wood, while the prairie extends from them back towards the Ioway in some places 20 miles. We slept at night within five miles of Two Towns containing hundreds of Indians.

10^th  July.     I now began to retrace my steps, and after nearly four hours of hard paddling I reached New Boston, quite "as hungry as a hawks”, After breakfasting, I parted with Mr. Parks, who purposes to preach in the Jamieson settlement next Sabbath, and thence to proceed to Missouri. I then rode about 22 miles to Cedar Creek, and then with Mr. Hugh Martin set out for Canton in Fulton Co. We travelled about 15 miles that evening.

11^th.    After leaving Mr. A. Robeson’s, we continued our journey until 5 P.M. when we reached Canton a distance of 45 miles, and 80 miles from New Boston which I left yesterday at 10 A.M.  Our journey lay through a part of Knox Co. as well as Warren & Fulton. This tract of country is fertile and beautiful, and if it were not for the "Patents", or soldiers claims, it must soon become densely populated wherever wood can be obtained. The Spoon River, tho’ large affords but little timber where we crossed near the remains of an old Indian Town. I forthwith intimated my intention of preaching tomorrow.  Application was made for the use of the Presbyterian Church a part of the day, which was obtained. As we approached the villiage our attention was arrested the destruction of trees fences and buildings caused by a whirlwind hurricane with which this villiage was visited on the 18th of June. By it five lives were lost, about thirty buildings demolished, and perhaps five hundred or more acres of the adjoining forest levelled nearly with the ground.  Goods from some stores were carried two miles or more, and one of the persons killed was carried perhaps twenty rods.  Most of the trees were torn up by the roots, many of them twisted like a with, and the remainder divested of their limbs.  It happened soon after dark, and passed in a few minutes.  The Methodist Chapel was unroofed and materially injured while the Pres. meeting house was comparatively uninjured.  The Presbyterian meetinghouse is the only place of worship, which I have seen in Illinois with a steeple and a bell.  The bell is said to have been presented by a Stephen B. Munn of N. York, who owns several thousand acres of land in the Military reserve.  The clergyman is of the New School order.

12^th July Lord's Day.     I preached at 11 A.M. & 5 P.M. & heard Mr. Stewart at 2 P.M. They have a  Sabbath School on the Union plan.

13^th.    I had the second day of rest which I have enjoyed since the 3rd day of June.  Eight or ten pious and intelligent members of our church were with me most of the day at Mr. Jas.  Smith’s.

14^th.     I preached at 10 A.M. at his house, to 35 or 40 people, and afterwards proceeded about twenty miles into Peoria Co., where I preached at the dwelling of Mr. Thos.  Smith and baptized a child for one of our members. Three of our families reside in what is called Harmers Settlement about 9 miles from the County Town of Peoria. They have been desirous of effecting a permanent settlement, and inviting a number of families of our people to locate in that vicinity, expecting soon to enjoy gospel privilege. These, their expectations have been ruined by Speculators, especially one Aikens, a New School Deacon from N. York. He by low cunning appears to have supplanted them, and to have purchased much of the vicinity for others. Our people will probably have to move elsewhere, perhaps to Warren Co.

15^th. I proceeded to Peoria 9 miles. On my journey a thunder atom came up and I had to turn into the first house. There I employed myself by improving my saddle till the shower passed, when I continued my journey. In half an hours time a violent storm overtook me and I was very wet before I could reach a roof.  The first I found was the dwelling of a scoffer from N. York City. As the storm was violent both of hail & rain and continued with little intermission for perhaps two hours, he invited me to dine with him, and drew me into conversation. Tho’ the point of his conversation, argument and sarcasm was directed against Christianity, yet some of his remarks were but too true, especially when he asserted that "if any man were now to preach what Christ taught he would be reckoned the greatest fool in the world".  Christ said "give, hoping for nothing again, and where, says he, is the Christian that will do so? He had sought and he could never find a disinterested Christian, and referred me to the above mentioned Aiken as a specimen of professors.  He was evidently a man wise in his own eyes, and of such there is but little hope. One great thing he said maintained by all "priestcraft was to keep Sunday", and tax men in this way.  Two observations which I had formerly made, were confirmed by his conversation, the one is that the fashionable religion shown in this "age of improvement” is not calculated to stop the mouth of gainsayers; and the other is, that the observance of the sacred Sabbath lies so deep in the vitals of Christianity, that those who neither fear God, nor regard man, are aware of it, and act accordingly.  I reached Peoria about 4 P.M. and soon after met with Mr. M. Taggart from Chilicothe, who kindly assisted me in making arrangements for preaching that evening which I did at the house of Mr. S. Lowry.  As soon as I commenced service, a merchant, a New School Pres. picked up his hat and ran out, determined not to hear the old psalms. Two lines of them were more than enough for him. This is a fine region of country upon the West side of the Illinois, and many are pouring into it from the East. There is no place of worship yet In the villiage.  An upper room in the Hotel In occupied by both Episcopalians and Presbyterians.  An old Sch. Clergyman, a Mr. Keller from Maryland had arrived here a few days previous to this date, and a Mr. Gaut sent out by the As. B. of  Miss, who had turned out a little New Schoolish had left for the vicinity of Springfield.  Peoria is from St. Louis 200 miles & from Chicago 165.

July 16^th.    After leaving Mr. Lowrie’s I continued to travel up the North Side of the Illinois River, and passed two petty villiages Rome and Chillicothe.  During the day I paseed a Methodist meeting and went to listen for a short season.  The country up the W. side of this River appeared beautiful - must soon be settled as far as timber can be obtained.  Towards evening I got completely astray from the small trail owing to the recent erection of some fences. Upon a bottom, through which I attempted to ride I found wild grass quite as high as my horse, and so thick that I found it difficult to retain my seat, on the saddle. After wandering about 3 or 4 miles out of my proper path I succeeded in reaching the about to be villiage of Henry a little after dark. I there got some grass and bushes mown for my poney and perhaps near half a gallon of corn.  When on inquiring what was to pay the master of the house who was a Methodist told me at first that he would not take any thing, and yet on the 17th took half a dollar.  There is some wood in this vicinity and it must soon prosper, I here crossed the Illinois River for which I paid double fare .25.   The River had been unusually high and was now fallen so far that by travelling  some extra distance, I avoided wading through the extensive bottom.  After traveling ten miles or so I reached Henepin the County town of Putnam Co. and then proceeded Eastward five miles to Mr. Nelson Shepherds.  Here I found several families connected with the old School Pres. and purposed to remain over Sabb. among them. The country here is beautiful.

18.   Both N. & Old Sch. Pres. are found in this vicinity, The New have seized the meetinghouse and the old meet I am informed in a school house.

19^th  Lord's Day.  I proceeded about 4 miles to a school house where I twice addressed an attentive audience of respectable looking people, and then in the afternoon went 4 miles to the villiage and preached at 5 P.M. to literally the whole villiage.  After sermon the wife of a Dr. Smith (I think It was) informed me that it was the desire of several persons that I should preach to them again which I did at 8 P.M.

20^th.    I was permitted to leave the villiage without any remuneration.  Perhaps these persons supposed that I had Jaoob’s ladder, and could pass through the week where silver would not be wanted but I found it otherwise.  Some of the old Sch. friends acknowledged that they ought to contribute but pled poverty of purse on the occasion. How very different from the old Psalmsingers, when they come drawing out their "two-pence" saying, "we cannot give you much, but we must not neglect our duty, I'll give you this, or we will give you so much". I once received one dollar of Gen. As. Presbyterian money, from an Elder at Black Rock, New York.  I have now preached to them, and for them, perhaps above twenty times; yet the second dollar has not been received from them.  I, from some friends, ascertained that some families of the name of Brackenridge belonging to the As. Refd. Ch. live about 30 miles distant on the Vermillion River.

21^st.    I left the vicinity of Henepin and proceeded towards Chicago.  I dined at Ottawa the County town of LaSalle. Here they have a New Sch.  Preacher as well as near Henepin, and I now began to find a little of Yankee fuss about their apologies for taverns.  The Fox and Ill. Rivers here unite, and the ferry across is the only one in the Western Country which I have seen that permits clergymen to pass free. The country from the Vermillion River changes its appearance. The rich vegetable mould becomes less abundant, and stones of different sizes are found over the face of the oountry, and from their appearance they give strong indications of some sudden convulsion of Nature. The land now becomes more difficult to cultivate, less luxuriant, and yet continues equally good for the growth of wheat. With the exception of some small groves the Prairies continue equally as extensive. The inhabitants in this region are generally from the North Eastern States.  I reached Holdermands grove 16 miles from Ottawa in the evening.  As usual I was permitted to conduct family worship before retiring.

22^nd.    Continued my journey. Some of the "sloughs" on this road are bad. A little after noon I passed a small villiage on the Dupage called Plainfield.  Near evening I reached the villiage of Joliet on the Oplain River.  It is a little over a year old & contains nearly 200 Inhabitants. I there called on Mr. Jas.  McKee who gave intimation that I would preach in his house in the evening.  As he seldom attended and did not belong to any of their meetings, it was quite novel that he should invite persons to hear sermon.  From every house in the villiage some came excepting one family of two persons where one of them lay sick.

23^rd.    I spent In Joliet.  They have a Home Missionary, a Mr. Talburt. In the evening the Methodists at some meeting set a howling like wolves, and continued I believe until after I went asleep.

24^th.    None friendly to Calvinism are to be discovered in this region. A glazier, a kind of would be preacher among the Methodists, wanted to know today why I was not at their prayer meeting last night.  As I did not care about debating with the likes of him, I pled as my defense that I knew nothing of their meeting.            In the afternoon I left for Chicago a distance of 40 miles & travelled about 18 or 20 miles.

25^th  July.            I now found my bills of fare becoming considerably larger for a night's lodging while in a pikeeoon log tavern the fuss of ringing a bell was last evening employed to avoid the vulgarity of announcing that my supper was ready. I breakfasted at the Desplaines about ten miles from Chicago, where the river is but a few feet elevated above Lake Michigan. I then proceeded across the dismal swamp, or Low Prairie, of eight and a half miles. Sometimes the water lies here to the depth of three or four feet. It now was passable by creeping along on the grass, but it was a most unpleasant journey. Excepting a small skirt of woods. it is all Prairie from the River DesPlaines (which runs South in to the Illinois) to the Lake at Chicago. It is too low for pleasant cultivation. It Is probably only elevated from two to four feet above the Lake and is often flooded in the wet season. Whenever the Des Plaines River rises but a few feet its surplus water is received by the South branch of the Chicago Creek which rises in the vicinity of the River and carried into Lake Mich. Instead of the Gulf of Mexico.  A canal is projected from the Lake by the South Branch of the Chicago via Joliet to Ottawa, and lands are reserved to the State for its construction. The scenery is that of common low Prairie.  I reached Chicago by noon. It presented a considerable appearance of commercial activity. It is now supposed to contain nearly 400 houses, and from three to four thousand inhabitants.  It is divided by the two branches of the Chicago Creek and united by three bridges. It is built upon a light prairie soil, on a general elevation of four feet above the waters of the Lake. A harbour is partially constructed and several Schooners were at this time riding at anchor. The houses are almost wholly of wood. Every good thing is dear here excepting the light of heaven and a few others.  The scenery here before the erection of houses must have been handsome. On the one hand a Prairie for eight or nine miles, and on the other the surface of the limpid Michigan while to the North and South as well as in the distance to the West there are groves and small forests standing. But the town is so level that nothing can be seen in the interior. Calling at the P. Office I recd. a letter from the Rev. A. Bower who had visited Chicago in June. I then called on two Scotchmen, by one of whom I was directed to Mr.  Philo Carpenter, one of the deacons of the Aminian Independent, Presbyterian Congregation of the place, who kindly invited me to lodge with him, and gave me permission to preach for them tomorrow, and granted me the indulgence of singing the inspired psalms, as one or two of their other deacons could not be found that evening. Mr. and Mrs. Carpenter I found very hospitable and kind and spent a pleasant season at their house although they are led by Eastern custom into the froth of New School divinity. They had swallowed the poison of some pernicious errors from Beman of Troy, N.  York. I this evening also became acquainted with a Mr. Brown from Aberdeen & Henry Mitchell from Fife. Three or four Scotch families I am told reside here.

26^th. July Sabbath. An we were at worship in the morning a Mr. Russel, said to be a deacon, called upon me, to let me know that they could not permit the inspired psalm to be sung in their meeting house, although I had obtained permission as I supposed from Mr. Carpenter last evening. As this was a privilege I could not forego, a considerable of argument and debate ensued.  Aware of the duplicity of such apparent friendship, I with difficulty could overcome my temper, until my feelings became unsuitable to the sacred Sabbath, and purely to leave off contention before it was meddled with, I yielded to this wise man from the East.  I desired to know his reasons, as I told him we made it a matter of conscience while so far as I know it was with them a matter of indifference.  Oh no says he, "it is a matter of conscience with us too.”  I then requested to know in what way he regarded it, if he thought the Inspired psalms were wrong or could do any harm. He could not condemn them on any of these charges, but advanced for reasons that he was afraid of offending their Chief Singer. I then inquired if he were a Church Member, and to what denomination he belonged? and received for answer that he did not belong to any church and was not a professor, yet it would offend him to read the lines of the psalms, two at a time.  Another great reason why the Sword of the Spirit must be supplanted by the weapons of men was, that he said they were desirous of producing uniformity in their way of worship, and instead of accommodating any particular people at a time, they must pursue, the customs set in the East.  He went so far as to assert that their master of the song could not sing at all If I read the line! Finding myself in a dilemma, if not in perils among false brethren, I then pled for liberty to commence the morning service by singing the 100 Ps. long metre, which was with great reluctance granted.  Thus deprived of the permission of singing "the Lord's song" in the temple of fashion (for fashion was the governing principle, which must grind to powder, my scruples of conscience) I called upon Mr. Brown (already mentioned) who, with Mr.  went Mr. Mitchell nd requested from a Mr. Garret the use of his Auction Room at 5 P.M. which was cheerfully granted.  As it had been published by handbills that I should preach In their Pres.  Meetinghouse so-called at l0 ½  A.M. I attended and commenced with the hundredth psalm, which they choir sung in their own way.  After sermon and prayer I believe I ought to have pronounced the blessing but Chenaniah, the Master of song came running up the pulpit stairs wanting to know. "is this a suitable hymn?" I told him to go and sing the 50th psalm of Watts common metre, which they did. Thus I was forced to "kiss the calves", in their temple. Who that believes that "whatsoever things were written aforetime, were written for our learning", can suppose that Ephraim cannot now offend in Baal, as well as speak trembling In Israel?  If so, would not Hosea now say concerning such persons, as he once said of Ephraim?  "and now they sin more and more and have made them idols according to their own understanding, all of it the work of the craftsmen: they say of them, Let the men that sacrifice kiss the calves". Hos.l3:2. The reason why they so much dreaded to displease their singer, I afterwards found, was that the Episcopalians were desirous to obtain his services, and as modern music fashionably played and sung is reckoned necessary to fill the churches, the breath of desolation, colder than the blast from Lake Winnepeg, would chill their mighty efforts to gather a polite congregation, if the opposition should employ the best ohorister, This, reader, Is but too true of many hymn-singing American churches. Providence kindly threw in the way, in the afternoon. a Gene As. Presbyterian Clergyman so that I had not positively to refuse to preach to them as I would probably have done, for Russel maintained in the morning, that I had nothing to do with the singing, and that they would attend to it, as they thought proper.  A Mr. Sill preached at 3 P.M. or rather read a sermon from a roll of manuscript.  On the right of the pulpit three of four seats were reserved for the singers. Before them two shelves were erected to which they stood, and on which they laid their tune & hymnbooks.  When the hymn was mentioned, the leader turned not only to the hymnbook but to the tune book, named aloud the tune and then sol’d and fa’d for some time before they took the track, still looking on their tune Book as well as their hymnbook. They appeared to be ever learning, and never able to come to the knowledge of the tune. After singing two, three or more of the gentlemen of the band went asleep, at which some of the young ladies of the choir appeared tickled and amused. At prayer they neither knelt nor stood, but crouched into their seats, in a lazy looking position. At 5 P.M. I, aocording to appointment preached In Mr. Garrett’s Auction room which was used as a place of worship by the Episcopalians.  About 40 or 50 collected and we sung the "sweet psalms" without molestation.  I attended their "Union” Sabbath School, (vulgarly called "Sunday School ") but it, like every one which I have seen on that plan, only convinced me more of the value of the Shorter Catechism, as a Compend of Divine truth. Comparatively little good is effected, in my opinion, in them. In the evening a Mr. Hinton, a Baptist preacher officiated in their Arminian, Independent Presbyterian, Meetinghouse. He gave us a semi-Aminian, semi-Calvanistic sermon. For the sake of enjoying a tune on the flute, a Catholic dropped in, and played upon one of the two flutes used by the Choir, at the time of singing. Such was the "conscience of Deacon Russell. He could not permit a Presbyterian Clergyman to read the inspired psalms in his temple yet it was doing God service to gratify the musical taste of a Catholic gentleman with an exhibition of his skill, in a Chief seat in the synagogue on the evening of the Lord's day ! !  I might here make a variety of observation upon the latest religious fashions from the East, and prove the identity of these customs, as I have seen them there; but I waive this in the meantime.

27^th July.   I spent in Chicago. Here a small garrison is kept and I was invited by an officer to visit the Barracks but my opportunity was then past. Every kind of property is high here. Flour I am informed is now Twelve Dollars per Bbl., and has been in June twenty four. Mr. Carpenter informed me that their meetinghouse was not on their own ground, and that if they now owned a good lot for building a church it would at present be worth five thousand dollars. They had the offer of a middling lot for three thousand dollars. This place has in commencement one Baptist Congr. one Methodist one Episcopalian, one New School Presbyterian, and a R. Catholic. To the North of this for an hundred miles settlements are forming, both in the State of Illinois, and in the Wisconsin Territory. The country is good for tillage, and much of it will soon be "brought into market” in Green Bay. Drunkenness prevails extensively here not only among the Catholic Irish, and Dutch; some of whom, I saw fighting today; but among the poor Indians.  Several groups of them were about the Town today and nearly all drunk. They present a humiliating picture of human debasement, and wretchedness. This place must form a considerable commercial deposit, but I do not believe that it will equal the expectation of many, as the surrounding country does not admit of a very dense population, and beyond Ottawa, in LaSalle oounty, imported goods are generally brought from the Mississ. River. Pure and undefiled religion has hardly an existence in this region. In the evening I was introduced to Mr. Porter, the Home Missionary of the place, formerly from Mass. who had just returned from the East with a wife. I should suppose him to be rather a weak brother. A sound and faithful minister is much wanted in Chicago.

28^th July.    After calling on a few friends, I left Chicago, and the dwelling of the hospitable Carpenters. My route lay around the Lake shore. At this time the steamboat Michigan had just left Chicago on her second trip thither from Buffalo. About eight or tan schooners lay at anchor, which with the swelling of the waves, and slight rolling of the surf reminded me of the shores of the Atlantic.   For six or eight miles the road lay upon the low prairie Bluff which joins closely upon the Lake, and then I had to travel upon the shore. On the one hand I had the clear and beautiful Lake, and on the other, groves, and small prairies, and sloughs. About 18 or 20 miles from Chicago I crossed the Indiana Line, and left Illinois, which state I had entered on the 30th of April. During that period, (three months wanting two days), I have rode about 1150 miles, in a part of eighteen counties. It Is a country for which Nature has done much; yet even from it, the curse is not removed. If it have no thistles, it has its thorns, and difficulties, always admonishing men to set their affections upon things above, and not on the earth beneath, for it, with its enjoyments, shall vanish away. On the South West corner of the Lake the sandhills commence, and on the South end of it we have to travel upon the Beach.  The country beyond the sandhills (which extend a mile or two back) is low, and not eligible for a road. Travelling, especially with a carriage, sometimes becomes here a difficult matter, particularly when a storm from the North drives upon the shore. After crossing the Line I found four taverns (the only dwellings) in 37 miles. On my journey today I saw a beautiful specimen of the eagle, the largest I believe I have ever seen. The native wildness of the desert shore appeared inviting to him, for when he flew he followed it for miles. His strength and velocity reminded me of the promise, they shall mount up with wings as do eagles & &. From the sandhills I fancied I could form some idea of the deserts where the Arabians pitch their tents. Here are heaps of it from sixty to one hundred feet high, much of it as fine as dust, and as loose as unpacked flour, and into it both man and beast sink a considerable distance. It is also much of it driven by the wind, particularly by a strong breeze from the Lake,   On many of the heaps the hardy pine waves in the breeze. The only stream of any considerable magnitude which falls into the Lake here for fifty miles is the Calumet, the former mouth or outlet of which has been completely shut by the sand. By sunset I found myself 42 miles from Chicago, which I had left at 9 A.M. and as it was 12 miles to the next Inn, I must now seek lodgings. I could hardly obtain lodgings at all the fellow (Hurd) a brother of the proprietor was so uncivil. By pleading a considerable time, I got liberty to put up my horse, and give him some bulrushes and very coarse grass, for they had no hay. After waiting from sunset till nine P.M. I succeeded in obtaining some supper, and got liberty to retire upon a small straw bed in the garret, where the moschettos kept singing their war songs, and sucking my blood when I attempted to sleep. In the morning I had only one dollar to pay, for these lodgings, including a feed of oats at the rate of two dollars per bushel.

29^th.      I left for Michigan City a distance of  twelve  miles, in which I gained above an hour on the stage waggon which left this paltry tavern ¾ of an hour before me. At the mouth of Trail Creek I came in sight of a part of Michigan City, which I think has the most rapid growth of any place which I have seen. In about a year and a half it numbers above 700 souls, has hotels and stores of different sizes, and even some warehouses four stories high. It is quite in the forest, and the half of the wood in some places among the buildings is not cut down, They have a school house in which worship is frequently held by the New School Presbyterians, Baptists, Campbellites, and Methodists. This place will be considerably retarded by the advancement of LaPorte villiage, which with Michigan City is in the County of LaPorte, In.  The weather today was oppressively warm yet I reached LaPorte in the afternoon, and after calling on W. Dinwiddie, M.D., I proceeded to call upon his brother, David, an Elder of the Gen.  As. Pres. Ch. one mile distant where I lodged for a few days.  LaPorte villiage lies upon the border of a fine Prairie and Is bounded on the other side by a Lake. As Court houses are generally built before churches in new countries so they have one with a painted exterior in the villiage but no meeting house. I was Informed by Dr. Dinwiddie that a jury of twelve doctors sat today over the body of a woman who had (in all probability) been killed in childbed, by the ignorance of a Campbellite preacher one St.Clair. He is now held on bail for trial In some $800, or $1000.

31^st.     I agreeably to previous appointment preached this evening in the school room in the villiage, and made appointments for Sabb. Here again, I may set up my Ebenezer, and say, "Hitherto the Lord hath helped me". I have been spared through another month in health and usefulness, and he has safely preserved me from the dangers of the way. I shall yet praise him, for he is my God.

During July 1835. 1 have rode about or above five hundred miles, preached seventeen times, baptized one child, ordained an Elder, and installed another, assisted In organizing a church, and dispensing the Lord's Supper once, beside teaching from house to house, or and worship in twenty families, addressing or preaching at a meeting of a Temperance Society. In the month I have received for the Missionary fund $19.00 while my expenses were about $11.40 besides sundries.

August 1835.

1^st.     This is a fine section of country, and the largest fields of wheat are in this vicinity which I have seen. Some farmers cut 130 acres of wheat. In conversation with Elder Dinwiddie I found that they formerly were supplied with a N. School preacher under the name of Presbyterian and finally had to turn him off. When it came to vote he had the feelings of the ladies so strongly in his favour that while the Elder as a matter of conscience voted him away his wife and daughter voted to retain Mr. Morel. The prophet denounced it as a woe that women should be the rulers of the people, but it is fulfilled by the antiscriptural and antipresbyterial novelties of New Schoolism engendered by the genius of Independency.  Instead of a well selected session or a congregational meeting of male members, or heads of families to transact the business of the church in the event of calling or removing a clergyman,  women have at least equal rights and privileges as speakers, and as they are commonly most numerous, they at times manage matters "most curiously". On one occasion in Jacksonville, Illinois, a preacher was called to the charge of a congregation by a few ladies, and a few (some two or three) male members, and although I was afterwards assured by some of the members of the same church, that they were not informed of the matter until after it was passed, yet I saw it puffed off in the St. Louis Observer (I think it was as an unanimous call from said oongregation! This, and some other members, equally ignorant of what was done in this unanimous meeting lived only four or five miles from the Church, when this call from the ladies "of Macedonia" was given for their minister. Few things are more gratifying, than to have a say in matters as they pass.

August 2^nd Lord's Day.   I this morning offended a careless person by reproving him for blacking his shoes, which produced a small, local excitement. I preached thrice today.  In the morning some Methodists attended, but for fear their people should return in the afternoon they erected seats and prepared for worship in an unfinished dwellinghouse upon the Sabbath day.  They have tried as elsewhere to rule here.  One of their leaders threatened the tradesmen of the villiage that they would encourage other tradesmen to supplant them, if they did not contribute liberally towards erecting a Methodist Chapel in the place.  They have a "Union” School here.  I felt sorry to see so many children wasting their sabbaths, In this inefficient manner. Fashion is powerful here. My sermons were by some thought quite too long.  However the day was among my pleasant sabbaths.

3^rd.      I travelled about ten miles East and preached in the house of Mr. Thomas Dinwiddie in the evening.  Three or four of our families live in this vicinity.  My attendance was good under all the circumstances.  This is a fine country for grain; if it were only as fertile in pure and undefiled religion!

4^th.      I spent with the friends in conversation & &    They contributed seven dollars to the Missionary fund.

5^th.    I left them and proceeded by Lakeport to Niles in the Mich. Terv. On my road I passed the store of an Indian who acts as the Government Interpreter with the Potawattomies and for his services has $100 per annum. He lives as Americans do; but his wife’s mother who appears to reside with him will not live in a house but has her "wigyap" erected near her daughter's dwelling.  Lakeport is a villiage of some teens of houses upon the margin of one of the many Lakes with which this region abounds.  I passed a farm today, on which there is are (it is said) 400 acres of wheat. On my way I passed several Indian dwellings, shantees & wigyaps.  At Niles such is the spirit of competition between this and some neighbouring villiages that all white men with their horses and carriages are ferried free. The Indians wade or ride their ponies. Niles Is a handsome villiage, but cannot become very large from the number of similar places in that vicinity. They have a Pres. Meetinghouse nearly finished, and an Episcopal clergyman I was told without a church, and without a proper congregation.

6^th.     I agreeable to previous appointment preached in the school house this evening.  People attentive.

7^th.           I found that Mr. Bower had attempted to organize a society here this summer with about 11 members.

August 8^th.     It will be difficult to effect much of a footing here, but this may serve as an intervening post between LaPorte Inda. & LaGrange M. Territory where a few of our people live.

9^th Lord's Day.    I addressed their Sabbath School. It is also on the "Union” plan. Only five verses were repeated of all the tasks assigned last Sabbath. I preached twice to a fashionable looking audience in the Pres. Meetinghouse. Here a Mr. Brown is expected to officiate. The evening I spent in instructing the family of the Widow Gray one of our people, with whom I lodged.

10^th.    I left Niles at I P.M. and travelled 24 miles. Before leaving our people contributed $5.50 to the Missionary fund.  I tonight an usual obtained permission to have worship at the Inn before retiring.

11^th.         I found in the morning that the mistress would take nothing for my lodgings.  Upon inquiry I found that she and her husband were from Ohio. Tho’ the mercury at noon stood at 86 degrees yet I travelled today 47 miles. In the White Pidgeon Prairie and some others the settlement is good.

12^th.         It was equally as warm as yesterday and I only travelled about 39 miles.

13^th.    Much of the country through here is comparatively poor.  The weather today changed and I received a complete soaking before I reached Tecumseh. About three miles South of the villiage I found the hospitable dwelling of Mr. Robert Boyd, by whom and his kind partner I was cordially welcomed. After my journey 1

found a day of rest (most pleasant {No. 2}) (among friends {No. 1})

14^th.         In company with Mr. Richard I went 4 miles   North of the villiage and called on a Mr. Beryl who is

married to a daughter of the Rev. David Inglis of Green Paw In Berwickshire, and in returning called at the Rev.

Mr. Wells, the Presbyterian minister of Tecumseh.

15^th.     I spent In writing letters & &

16^th.         I preached at 11 A.M. at Mr. Boyd's,

at 2 P.M. in the Pres. Meetinghouse in Tecumseh and at oandlelighting in the Congregational meeting house in Clinton, 5 miles North of Tecumseh.

17^th.   I returned from Mr. Beryl’s to Mr. Boyd's and preached at 5 P.M. to an attentive people.

18^th.      I spent in writing letters & &.

19^th.    I received from the few friends here $4 for the Missionary fund. It was difficult to part with them, for among

them is some of the salt of the earth.  I today posted 9 letters in Tecumseh to different friends.  As I proceeded to

Detroit I passed Saline and lpsilanti on the Chicago turnpike and by night reached the dwelling of Mr. W. Bell,

from Lockerly. This is a region destitute of sound doctrine.  Came 40 miles.

20^th.   As my horse was wearied I remained today and preached at Mr. Bell's to a few people in the afternoon. The Methodists have a few people in this vicinity.

21^st.  I continued my journey to Detroit.  At Dearborn 12 miles West of the City I passed an Arsenal belonging to the U. S. Government. The public buildings are handsome and extensive. They are built with brick. The villiage appears flourishing, excepting that it appeared considerably filled with Catholic Irish.  It is near a branch of the Raisin River.  Between 2 and 3 P.M. I came In sight of the Detroit River, and the Canada shore.  The scenery is here beautiful and the prospect extensive. In this vicinity I passed the abodes of several "habitants" which presented the same conformity with the vicinity of Montreal.  Detroit tbo’ as old as Philadelphia is not yet a large town. The lower end of it contains a considerable number of French dwellings, while the upper and rear part is more improved. Beside two Catholic Chapels (attended by six priests and a Bishop) It contains one Baptist, one Methodist, & one Episcopalian meeting house beside a large new building recently erected (90 feet by 60) by the Arminian Independents, miscalled Presbyterians.  Beside a County Court House it has a City Hall for the

Mayor's Courts and other public offices. it Is advantageously situated as a place of commercial deposit and exchange.  From appearances religion exercises but a small influence over the community.

22^nd. August.     I today proceeded about 26 miles N. West of Detroit to Orchard and Pine lakes in Oakland Co. to ascertain the situation of that vicinity in a religious point of view.  The roads were bad yet I succeeded in reaching a small Scotch settlement In the afternoon.  I there found that the Reformed Pres. had a small vacancy in the S.E. part of the County, and that the few Scotch families had generally joined the Congregationalists in that vicinity.

23^rd.  Lord's Day.    I went at 11 A.M. to hear a Mr. Ruggles the Independent of that neighbourhood, and at his request preached to the few who attended, I then made an appointment for 3 P.M. about 3 miles distant, and preached at that hour at the house of a Mr. Wallace.  In the evening I was shown the records of the Independent Church which had existed about a year and a half but was now dissolved by mutual consent because it was deemed expedient to continue no longer! The Sabbaths of the Lord were not regarded so much as the days of evil worship approved by man viz every first Monday of each month - The thing originated in this way, after previous intimation given at a particular meeting, it was deemed expedient that a Ch. of Christ should be formed there, and like a turf club or a farming society it was voted into existence with the Rev. Ruggles as pastor-elect.  A few articles admitting of either a Calvinistic or Aminian interpretation as to doctrine were then adopted, and under the genius of Independency they resolved to meet on the first Monday of every month.  For a few months the now broom swept clean, but by and bye the novelty of it ceased, the absent from month to month became more numerous.  Notes, urging their attendance, were written by the official scribe to the delinquents, which at times brought nearly the whole assembly together and it kept increasing until it numbered nearly 30 members. A young Scotchman who had caught the infection of Independency in Manchester, England (if he had not taken it the natural way) was the great mainspring of this modern Church.  Sometimes the performances of a Sabbath were noted; but without fail the doings (if not the sayings) of the Monday Monthly meetings were recorded.  At the expiration of a year it became quite uphill work to call their Church together, in spite of all their vows and renewed covenants to the contrary.  Nineteen dollars were in one year subscribed if not raised for ministerial support, but as the second year revolved neither money nor members were on the increase, so to prevent bankruptcy both in Church and finances about the middle of the second year those who "abode by the stuff" deemed It adviseable to dismiss the assembly. This was done by the same authority and in nearly the same way in which this would-be facsimile of an apostolic church was organized, by a vote of the sovereign members. In this way a Church of Christ (so-called) was blotted from existence, and its quondam members with their households were thrown over to the partakers of the uncovenated mercies of the heathen. Whether the nineteen dollars were duly spent in the service of the altar I know not, but it so happened that their treasurer made a quiet move from the neighbourhood carrying with him the bag, containing a few dollars and some cents of which it was resolved before the final resolve that the clerk should receive one dollar of that sum, when it could be recovered, for his services.  These individuals were now nothing bettered by their spiritual physicians, and instead of haveing, as some of them formerly had, certificates of Church membership they are now deprived of them and can be admitted into no proper religious society but by a second personal examination. One thing was observeable from their records, that no applicant for membership was refused.  Their Platform is now a dead letter.  Their minister Mr. R. is now farming his living from a small piece of ground.

24^th.  I after calling on one or two families proceeded in the evening to Ponteac and preached in their Independent meetinghouse. It Is a handsome country building and was erected in part at least as an ornament to the villiage, for only one professor of religion had any part in erecting it. The force of custom has in this case, almost verefied Watt's assertion respecting the Church - "The world admires her heavenly dress" It was built upon some model seen “down East".

25^th.         As it rained I did not travel.

26^th.         I proceeded nearly 30 miles to the Township of Bruce N. of Romeo in McComb Co. where I spent the remainder of the week. In this vicinity they have 8 or nine Scotch families who have joined a Congregational meeting under the Rev.  Mr. Taylor of that order. From Mr.Taylor who has been 48 years in the ministry I learned several interesting particulars respecting the workings of Independency - When I was a student says he "we had to study science. We were hardly permitted to read a Newspaper (tho’ it was during the Revolutionary struggle) for fear of abstracting our attention from our study of science. Now (continued he) In our colleges young inexperienced lads form societies for this, that & the other and neglect their studies in the sciences. After hearing one of these youths not long since pretend to preach before several clergymen, and shew his want of qualification for his duty I found I must reprove him.  When we all (the clergymen present) had retired by ourselves I repeated to him in their hearing, "Not a novice lest having lifted up with pride he fall into the condemnation of the devil”, and I said no more".  He deplored much the "Constitution of Michigan" recently formed declaring it to be Atheistical.  He lamented of the crying evils of the day, but could not see (what was evident) that not a few of them if not all could be traced to practical Independency.

30^th.  Sabbath.   I preached, twice in a large school house or small church on Mr. Taylor Junior's farm. The people here as in Oakland who had formerly been acquainted with Presbyterianism were desirous to enjoy it again.  The land here is better than in Oakland Co.

31^st.   As my missionary appointment had now expired, I thought of proceeding to the St. Clair River and thence directly to London U. C. From this I was however detered by the accounts which I received of the roads, and I then proceeded towards Detroit to go thence to London. I today travelled 36 miles. Thus in the loving kindness of Jehovah I have been permitted to spend another active mouth in the vineyard.

During August 1835 I have travelled about 360 miles, preached sixteen times, received for the Missionary fund $16.01 ¼, while my expenses were $6.65 ¾.

                                                                                                                                                Miles

             From Cin. to St. Louis                                                                                                 700

             Travelled in Illinois

                          previous to July 7th from April the 31st                                                     800

                          about 800 miles

30         Sent a draft to W. Hamilton of $117.85

             82.    22.50    l3.35      $117.85

July 7^th                                        $10 for Synod Funds

                                                        7 for McDill

                                                       50

                                                       25

                                                          6.76

                                                   $98.76

             Recd. from D. Lautreman, Edsville                                           $ 2.25 for Miss. fund

                             from McDill                                                                     1.25

                             from Geo.Wallace,south part

                                of Sangamon Co.Ill.                                                    1.00

                             from McDill, from John Boyd                                      1.25

                             at Jacksonville

                                      for five Sabbaths                                                 18.47 ½ for Miss. fund

                             Ibi from McDill                                                               2.50

                                                                                                                      1.00

                                                                                                                      1.00

                                                                                                                      1.25

                             from him at Cedar Greek                                                5.00

                             Sent him $6.75

                                by D. McDill, June 15th, 1835

                             at Warren Co.

                                      for three Sabbath services                               18.00 for Miss. fund

Have seven dollars for McDill July 7th

                   Passage from Cin. to St. Louis                                                        $12.62 ½

                   Purchase - horse, etc.                                                                         54.12 ½                    78.2

                   Travelling exp. to Jacksonville                                                           3.25                            9.55 ½

                   From Jack. to Warren Co. and back                                                  4.31                         87.57 ½

                   From Jaok.30th June to July 7th                                                        3.21

                   Repairs of saddle                                                                                 0.50

                                                                                                                                23.89 ½                      23.89 ½

                                                                                                                                54.12 ½                         9.55 ½

                   Total of expe till 7th July                                                                 78.2                            33.45

                                                                                                                                                                   till

                                                                                                                                                                   Augt. l

                                                                                                                                                                   Miles

                   From Peoria to Henepin                                                                                                                85

                                Henepin to Chicago                                                                                                         90

                   Travelled from July 7th to 31st                                                                                                 400

                   Travelling exp. during do.                                                      $9.55 ½

                   Augt. lst at LaPorte Inda.

                   From lst Augt. till 15th                                                           2.72

                   Travelled in that time                                                                                                                 190

                   Horseshoeing at Illeoumseh AuCtel5th                              1.50

                   Recd. at  Tecumseh, Lenawee Coo                                                             $4.05

                   Exp. from Augt. 15th to 29th                                                 1.62 ½

                   Sundries ditto                                                                          2.50

                   Travelled ditto                                                                                                                            135

                   From Augt.29th till Sept. 1, exp.                                               .81 ¼

                   Travelled ditto                                                                                                                            45

                                                          700                      33.45

                                                          300                          2.72

                                                          400                          1.62 ½

                                                          500                            .81 ¼

                                                          190                      38.61 ¾

                                                          135

                                                            45                          1.50

                                                        2270                      40.11 ¾